Pediados Street and surrounding streets.
As the residency has just moved to Pediados Street we are new to gathering information about the area. Here is an article written about it by Mr. Yiannis Vlachos, a professor at the TEI of Crete, who lived in the neighborhood for 30 years.
Pediados Street, 1950-1980 or otherwise "Memories of life from the heart of the Great Castle"
Pediados Street, a 150-meter street, next to the Venetian walls, in the old city of Heraklion, which connects the 3 Arches with the New Gate. A road with its own story or rather with its many stories. A street perhaps unknown to today's young Heraklionites (except those who pass by desperately looking to park their car from Eleftheria Square to Vigla). A street that from the first post-war years until the beginning of the 80s was full of life, with well-kept houses with flowery yards, with humble and cheerful people, with families with many children who made this street look like a playground
Two grocers and a convenience store served the daily needs of the neighborhood (they usually went with a notebook in hand and said .. "write"). Many families on Pediados Street and the surrounding streets (Tryfitsou and Renieri, ) were refugees from Asia Minor. The proximity of the houses that were next to each other, brought the people of each neighborhood very close and everyone lived as if they were one big family. All the families of Odos Pediados, from one end to the other, knew each other and had good relations, not like today when we don't know who lives in the apartment next door or upstairs. Many families rented one or two rooms of their house to students from rural villages who came to Heraklion to go to the Gymnasium.
Every morning, during the summer months, the ice seller would pass by with his cart, distributing the ice columns to the wealthiest families who also had an ice maker. Early every morning the milkman also passed by to give milk to the housewives who were waiting for him with a jug at their door. Later, the greengrocer would come by with his donkey to supply the housewives with the groceries for the day's cooking, while in the afternoons all the children would wait for the pastry shop, the ice cream shop and other vendors to come by so that we could buy the various delicacies for a few pennies.
At dusk, all the women would take chairs outside their doors and sit until late in the summer evenings to cool off discussing family matters, gossiping and commenting on the events of the day. On very hot days, the Municipality's water truck spent the afternoons, drenching the road to cool the atmosphere!. Cars rarely passed, and when they did the women sitting on the road were forced to get up to pull over, resenting and remarking at the disrespectful driver who dared to drive by! The young men and women, on the contrary, as soon as evening came, winter or summer, were within walking distance of the square of the 3 Chambers for the established walk and the well-known bridal market.
Pediados formed 3 small squares that were the center of the gathering of the children of each neighborhood where every afternoon until late at night we played all kinds of games that today's children, I'm sure, don't know much about. Wood, long donkey, mother's harness, deer, lame, chase, hide, swoosh, the ring, the pumpkin, etc. were the most common. The shouts, kicks and fights that accompanied these games are indescribable. Once a neighbor, annoyed by the noise we were making, came out and noticed us and drove us to go further, and complained about the many children that this neighborhood had. Then another neighbor who heard her complaints and whining, came out and shouted at her bluntly "What did you expect Mrs. Hariklias, they called her a child, she will have children!!" But our games were not limited to Pediados Street. The neighboring hill of the Scout, Iroon, Vigla and the surrounding Bentenia were also places of action for the games of the older children.
In our own neighborhood, where the "Green Doors" tavern was, my father's house was in a dead end (we called it Chikma) and next to the small square was a Turkish fountain with a trough and above it an inscription in Arabic. This fountain was the starting point and the basis of our games (this fountain has been removed and today it is exhibited in the Historical Museum of Heraklion). Every year in every neighborhood, everyone gathered and opened the key, while on the night of Ai Gianni, all the May Day wreaths were thrown into the fire and the whole street looked like a festival.
Images like these and many memories cross my mind every time I pass my old neighborhood, Pediados Street, most of the time driving in a hurry. But as many times as I walk by, I stand and see the ruined houses and I remember the children, the friends, the neighbors, all of whom have left, while others, like me, have moved to other neighborhoods inside or outside the city, to villas, or to apartment buildings and luxury apartments. Walking, I stop and look at the crumbling houses, the broken yards, the grassy walls and I remember one by one the families that lived there, their beautiful yards, the smells that came out of the open windows, the children who grew up in these alleys even today are important figures of Heraklion society, scientists, successful businessmen, artists and many other remarkable people, whose names I don't need to mention, and I am truly saddened to see how this road of abandonment has become over time. It is an image that one can hardly believe is located in the heart of the most central part of our city. It is a picture of desolation, without the voices of children, without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars. and I am truly saddened to see how abandoned this road has become over time. It is an image that one can hardly believe is located in the heart of the most central part of our city. It is a picture of desolation, without the voices of children, without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars. and I am truly saddened to see how abandoned this road has become over time. It is an image that one can hardly believe is located in the heart of the most central part of our city. It is a picture of desolation, without the voices of children, without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars. without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars. without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars.
Today the several heirs and owners of these houses would like to preserve these houses and give this street as much of its old colour and glory as possible. Our city needs neighborhoods like this, we made it ugly enough by cementing and destroying everything old and traditional. Unfortunately, although the municipal authority has created and highlighted many monuments and historical areas of our city, with remarkable development and beautification projects, absolutely nothing has been done on Pediados Street. The road has been left to its own devices and the ravages of time. Let's hope that the new municipal government will see this issue and make sure to do something about this busy, central but neglected street of the old town.
Pediados Street, 1950-1980 or otherwise "Memories of life from the heart of the Great Castle"
Pediados Street, a 150-meter street, next to the Venetian walls, in the old city of Heraklion, which connects the 3 Arches with the New Gate. A road with its own story or rather with its many stories. A street perhaps unknown to today's young Heraklionites (except those who pass by desperately looking to park their car from Eleftheria Square to Vigla). A street that from the first post-war years until the beginning of the 80s was full of life, with well-kept houses with flowery yards, with humble and cheerful people, with families with many children who made this street look like a playground
Two grocers and a convenience store served the daily needs of the neighborhood (they usually went with a notebook in hand and said .. "write"). Many families on Pediados Street and the surrounding streets (Tryfitsou and Renieri, ) were refugees from Asia Minor. The proximity of the houses that were next to each other, brought the people of each neighborhood very close and everyone lived as if they were one big family. All the families of Odos Pediados, from one end to the other, knew each other and had good relations, not like today when we don't know who lives in the apartment next door or upstairs. Many families rented one or two rooms of their house to students from rural villages who came to Heraklion to go to the Gymnasium.
Every morning, during the summer months, the ice seller would pass by with his cart, distributing the ice columns to the wealthiest families who also had an ice maker. Early every morning the milkman also passed by to give milk to the housewives who were waiting for him with a jug at their door. Later, the greengrocer would come by with his donkey to supply the housewives with the groceries for the day's cooking, while in the afternoons all the children would wait for the pastry shop, the ice cream shop and other vendors to come by so that we could buy the various delicacies for a few pennies.
At dusk, all the women would take chairs outside their doors and sit until late in the summer evenings to cool off discussing family matters, gossiping and commenting on the events of the day. On very hot days, the Municipality's water truck spent the afternoons, drenching the road to cool the atmosphere!. Cars rarely passed, and when they did the women sitting on the road were forced to get up to pull over, resenting and remarking at the disrespectful driver who dared to drive by! The young men and women, on the contrary, as soon as evening came, winter or summer, were within walking distance of the square of the 3 Chambers for the established walk and the well-known bridal market.
Pediados formed 3 small squares that were the center of the gathering of the children of each neighborhood where every afternoon until late at night we played all kinds of games that today's children, I'm sure, don't know much about. Wood, long donkey, mother's harness, deer, lame, chase, hide, swoosh, the ring, the pumpkin, etc. were the most common. The shouts, kicks and fights that accompanied these games are indescribable. Once a neighbor, annoyed by the noise we were making, came out and noticed us and drove us to go further, and complained about the many children that this neighborhood had. Then another neighbor who heard her complaints and whining, came out and shouted at her bluntly "What did you expect Mrs. Hariklias, they called her a child, she will have children!!" But our games were not limited to Pediados Street. The neighboring hill of the Scout, Iroon, Vigla and the surrounding Bentenia were also places of action for the games of the older children.
In our own neighborhood, where the "Green Doors" tavern was, my father's house was in a dead end (we called it Chikma) and next to the small square was a Turkish fountain with a trough and above it an inscription in Arabic. This fountain was the starting point and the basis of our games (this fountain has been removed and today it is exhibited in the Historical Museum of Heraklion). Every year in every neighborhood, everyone gathered and opened the key, while on the night of Ai Gianni, all the May Day wreaths were thrown into the fire and the whole street looked like a festival.
Images like these and many memories cross my mind every time I pass my old neighborhood, Pediados Street, most of the time driving in a hurry. But as many times as I walk by, I stand and see the ruined houses and I remember the children, the friends, the neighbors, all of whom have left, while others, like me, have moved to other neighborhoods inside or outside the city, to villas, or to apartment buildings and luxury apartments. Walking, I stop and look at the crumbling houses, the broken yards, the grassy walls and I remember one by one the families that lived there, their beautiful yards, the smells that came out of the open windows, the children who grew up in these alleys even today are important figures of Heraklion society, scientists, successful businessmen, artists and many other remarkable people, whose names I don't need to mention, and I am truly saddened to see how this road of abandonment has become over time. It is an image that one can hardly believe is located in the heart of the most central part of our city. It is a picture of desolation, without the voices of children, without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars. and I am truly saddened to see how abandoned this road has become over time. It is an image that one can hardly believe is located in the heart of the most central part of our city. It is a picture of desolation, without the voices of children, without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars. and I am truly saddened to see how abandoned this road has become over time. It is an image that one can hardly believe is located in the heart of the most central part of our city. It is a picture of desolation, without the voices of children, without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars. without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars. without the old families, without life as I remember it. Few houses have been renovated and are the exception to the current image of the street, but they give hope that even now something can change and Pediados street will begin to gain life and movement again, but not from passing cars.
Today the several heirs and owners of these houses would like to preserve these houses and give this street as much of its old colour and glory as possible. Our city needs neighborhoods like this, we made it ugly enough by cementing and destroying everything old and traditional. Unfortunately, although the municipal authority has created and highlighted many monuments and historical areas of our city, with remarkable development and beautification projects, absolutely nothing has been done on Pediados Street. The road has been left to its own devices and the ravages of time. Let's hope that the new municipal government will see this issue and make sure to do something about this busy, central but neglected street of the old town.
Note. Although the residency has moved to a new area we still have close ties to Lakkos which is just a ten minute walk away from Pediados Street.
Lakkos
Lakkos was the pre-eminent neighborhood of the underground world in Heraklion city. In the narrow streets of its magkes walked, known-unknowns bullies, prostitutes selling love, rebetes improvised songs on their old bouzouki, hashish was a daily habit and generally was a cell of society that had disrupted the quiet life of high urbanised Heraklion society in the early 20th century.Lakkos: The underground neighborhood of vulgar love.
Most residents of Heraklion crossing the small and narrow streets in "Kommeno Benteni" and enter the area of the Lakkos do not even know the history of this district that appears to be "lost in time". Next is the newly built Cultural Center of Heraklion. The neighborhood of Lakkos had experienced the greatest prosperity in the early decades of the 20th century.
The historical starting point of Lakkos is located about 1900 when the official Cretan State issued the decree "On Chamaitypeion" which ordered the spatial concentration of brothels in certain areas away from the city. The brothels for Christians were placed into the Lakkos, being located next to the British military installations located in the Venetian walls. The site was ideal because it was away from the city center and was relatively neglected. The prostitutes were followed by all the familiar people: Madames, lovers, pimps etc.
With the advent of prostitutes and the various brothels, was born gradually an entire underworld alongside that of urban culture which then appeared in Heraklion influenced by contact with the West. Strange guys that were playing hurdy, restaurant owners and thugs, pimps and men that were selling chasish complete the picture of this neighborhood. They used their own language, had nicknames and generally moving in the margin. With this population amalgam Lakkos began its turbulent history, leaving behind an insurmountable legend that retains its power even today.
This discreditable ‘’mahala’’, with all sorts of illegal amusements and marginal residents continued to exist until the end of the interwar period. When the Second World War broke and Crete fell to the Germans, prostitutes were transferred to a hotel to serve their conquerors.
The Asia Minor refugees
After the Asia Minor Catastrophe and the formal exchange of populations, many refugees came to Heraklion in 1922, settled round the Lakkos and mixed with residents. With them they brought their music, which somehow was familiar to the residents of Lakkos since Aman Kafe were in the area. The local residents of Heraklion saw with half eye this outlandish oriental culture and the Turkish exclamations that could be heard in their songs.
Lakkos’s magkes
The rebetes and bullies constituted a distinct social group within Lakkos. They wore distinguishing clothes, walked slowly and "heavy", spoke the peculiar slang, had twisted mustaches and made gestures when dancing. They were having lots of fun and drinking chassis all together.
A separate aspect of this life was rebetes and especially their songs. It was impromptu creations themselves, not being in a studio ever and so were lost, since critics of the era considered them indecent.
Lakkos nowadays
Lakkos today does not resemble anything from the old "greatness ." If you do a walk there, you will find many old houses with tiny yards, shops closed and some rubble. Being in this situation, however, emits an infinite charm of these bygone eras. An attempt to change the architecture and landscaping of the area is the road that passes in front of St. Matthew, with the new buildings that are next to small houses. Arguably Lakkos is an area that deserves to be explored in order to feel the other rhythm that rocks the streets of this legendary neighborhood.
Recently a new kafeneon and taverna have opened in the centre of Lakkos. Both venues have proven to be very popular. The kafeneon is very involved in the Lakkos project and has offered it's full support. Sadly the area is still about 50% abandoned. Bad city planning and desires to knock down the small houses to replace them with modern apartment buildings still exist. The Lakkos project tries to highlight the beauty of the area in order for the locals to see the value in keeping it in its current state.
Update 09/02.2022
Big changes happing in Lakkos with the old asphalt roads being dug up and paved. Lots of tree planting and a big reduction in car parking spaces. Plus a new amphitheatre that will be wonderful for performance that are normally held on the residency roof terrace.
Most residents of Heraklion crossing the small and narrow streets in "Kommeno Benteni" and enter the area of the Lakkos do not even know the history of this district that appears to be "lost in time". Next is the newly built Cultural Center of Heraklion. The neighborhood of Lakkos had experienced the greatest prosperity in the early decades of the 20th century.
The historical starting point of Lakkos is located about 1900 when the official Cretan State issued the decree "On Chamaitypeion" which ordered the spatial concentration of brothels in certain areas away from the city. The brothels for Christians were placed into the Lakkos, being located next to the British military installations located in the Venetian walls. The site was ideal because it was away from the city center and was relatively neglected. The prostitutes were followed by all the familiar people: Madames, lovers, pimps etc.
With the advent of prostitutes and the various brothels, was born gradually an entire underworld alongside that of urban culture which then appeared in Heraklion influenced by contact with the West. Strange guys that were playing hurdy, restaurant owners and thugs, pimps and men that were selling chasish complete the picture of this neighborhood. They used their own language, had nicknames and generally moving in the margin. With this population amalgam Lakkos began its turbulent history, leaving behind an insurmountable legend that retains its power even today.
This discreditable ‘’mahala’’, with all sorts of illegal amusements and marginal residents continued to exist until the end of the interwar period. When the Second World War broke and Crete fell to the Germans, prostitutes were transferred to a hotel to serve their conquerors.
The Asia Minor refugees
After the Asia Minor Catastrophe and the formal exchange of populations, many refugees came to Heraklion in 1922, settled round the Lakkos and mixed with residents. With them they brought their music, which somehow was familiar to the residents of Lakkos since Aman Kafe were in the area. The local residents of Heraklion saw with half eye this outlandish oriental culture and the Turkish exclamations that could be heard in their songs.
Lakkos’s magkes
The rebetes and bullies constituted a distinct social group within Lakkos. They wore distinguishing clothes, walked slowly and "heavy", spoke the peculiar slang, had twisted mustaches and made gestures when dancing. They were having lots of fun and drinking chassis all together.
A separate aspect of this life was rebetes and especially their songs. It was impromptu creations themselves, not being in a studio ever and so were lost, since critics of the era considered them indecent.
Lakkos nowadays
Lakkos today does not resemble anything from the old "greatness ." If you do a walk there, you will find many old houses with tiny yards, shops closed and some rubble. Being in this situation, however, emits an infinite charm of these bygone eras. An attempt to change the architecture and landscaping of the area is the road that passes in front of St. Matthew, with the new buildings that are next to small houses. Arguably Lakkos is an area that deserves to be explored in order to feel the other rhythm that rocks the streets of this legendary neighborhood.
Recently a new kafeneon and taverna have opened in the centre of Lakkos. Both venues have proven to be very popular. The kafeneon is very involved in the Lakkos project and has offered it's full support. Sadly the area is still about 50% abandoned. Bad city planning and desires to knock down the small houses to replace them with modern apartment buildings still exist. The Lakkos project tries to highlight the beauty of the area in order for the locals to see the value in keeping it in its current state.
Update 09/02.2022
Big changes happing in Lakkos with the old asphalt roads being dug up and paved. Lots of tree planting and a big reduction in car parking spaces. Plus a new amphitheatre that will be wonderful for performance that are normally held on the residency roof terrace.
